Food Glorious Food

So. Who would be mad enough to organize a pop up restaurant in a room above an art gallery in a tiny fishing village on the Yorkshire coast? And on two consecutive nights? We were. And did it work? Not half.

Our first Squidbeak dinners were held last weekend at the Staithes Gallery. Fulsome praise goes first to the amazing Lisa Chapman who somehow produced fabulous food* for 55 people from a domestic oven without throwing a single cheffy tantrum. Well almost. Her two unflappable co-workers Susie and Alison who made the room look lovely with white linen, tea lights and gleaming glasses are next in line for a round of applause followed closely by Al Milnes who owns the gallery and who somehow pulled the whole thing together with her customary charm and good humour.

You might well ask what Jill and I had to do with anything. Well we plied the unsuspecting diners with La Dolci Colline Prosecco and dusted down our waitressing skills under Susie and Alison’s expert tutelage and managed not to spill much at all. Not down a customer anyway. People came from far and wide; all sorts of folk, many of whom had never clapped eyes on us or one another before. The crowd included teachers, a photographer, a judge, a couple of café and B&B owners and Gus the musician from Baildon who just happened to be walking down the street in search of fish & chips and booked in on the spur of the moment. Nice one Gus, good to meet you.

Wines from Flourish and Prosper in Howden were from Chile: Montevista Reserve Viognier and a bio-dynamic Emeliana Reserva Pinot Noir. Even the coffee was served in mugs designed by resident Staithes artist, Rob Shaw, and the lovely people from Priorat Produce brought us a mighty bottle of their fab olive oil to raffle and generously distributed free samples to all. Thanks Tina and Neil.

There are few things more rewarding than witnessing a room full of happy eaters chatting away, glasses clinking, laughter rising. It was a blast and we can’t wait to do it all again 22/23 June and 28/29 September. Be there or be square.

*Yorkshire asparagus with hollandaise sauce went down a storm as did the shredded duck with honey and hoisin dressing. Lemon sole with herby butter was a winner and the slow cooked pork belly was just as good. There wasn’t a single portion of Lisa’s famous crème brulee with berry coulis left (grrr) so we had to content ourselves with a shared plate of chocolate roulade. It’s a tough job ..

 

Talbot Hotel Opening

In February we reported our dismay at the expensive signing of James Martin as executive chef at the newly refurbed Talbot Hotel in Malton. Despite assurances to the contrary, we couldn’t help thinking this was a PR stunt rather than a commitment to real food, especially disappointing when owner Tom Naylor Leyland had declared his commitment to Malton as a food town.

So it was very gracious of them, in the circumstances, to invite me to their opening on Thursday. We were served drinks and canapés and given a tour  before the public opening at the weekend and I have to declare the £4million looks well spent.

Twenty six bedrooms a couple of suites, bar, atrium, drawing room and dining room, all tastefully done out in English country house style.

There was good fun quizzing the young receptionist who was here in its Fawlty Towers heyday. The atrium where you can now enjoy a lavish afternoon tea was remembered by her as being open to the elements with a rusty fire escape where the staff went to have an illicit fag.

The canapés were delicious: pea and watercress soup, fish goujons,  sticky toffee pudding, and a white chocolate and whisky croissant bread and butter pudding. And yes, the man himself was there, not swanning about like a celeb, but actually looking hot and sweaty and nervy in the kitchen.

Putting my head into the lion’s mouth, I buttonholed Naylor Leyland. He admitted JM won’t be in the kitchen all the time – ‘though he has bought a house up here,’ he told me. ‘And he’s been in the kitchen for the last two weeks’. The restaurant menu had yet to be finalised but N-L promised just good food without dips and drIzzles, for which much thanks.

He knows there’s much riding on the Talbot, particularly on its restaurant. It could and should be the place in Malton to eat well, not just for hotel guests but more especially non-residents and especially if N-L wants to achieve his food-town ambition. To his credit he is putting his money where his mouth is.

Besides the starry Martin, they’ve appointed Craig Aitchison from Swinton Park as head chef so it’s a strong team. Furthermore, they’ve challenged me to come and eat here and report back – and  promise to take note of what I have to say. Can’t say fairer than that. Watch this space. I may yet have to eat not only my fish goujons, but also my hat.

Art + Dinner+ Wine at the Staithes Gallery

We are delighted to announce the first of a series of delicious, seasonal and sociable dinners by the sea.

Squidbeak have teamed up with local chef Lisa Chapman and our friends at the vibrant Staithes Gallery the independent wine merchants Flourish & Prosper,  to hold an evening of art, food and wine.

Evening at the Staithes Gallery

Lisa@thegallery

Art+Dinner+Wine

Friday & Saturday 11th/12th May & 22nd/23rd June

Staithes Gallery, High Street, Staithes TS13 5BH

A delicious, seasonal, three course dinner including wine and coffee £39.50 per person.

To book your place at the table: 01947 841840 or 07972 012464 al@staithesgallery.co.uk

* * *

 Learn more: Our chef Lisa Chapman was owner of the much-loved Endeavour restaurant in Staithes for twelve years. She took the restaurant straight into the Good Food Guide where it stayed throughout her tenure. Lisa has run her own delicatessen and now cooks for private events.

The beach at Staithes

The Staithes Gallery is in a fine Georgian building in the heart of the old village. Upstairs is a splendid dining room and downstairs showcases the very best contemporary art inspired by the sea, the cliffs, the moors and the people of the area in a village that has always been a magnet for artists.

It was the convivial dinners prepared by Lisa for the residential courses run by Staithes Art School, that prompted us to link up with the Gallery for a series of Squidbeak dinners we have named  Lisa@thegallery.

The evening will begin at 7.15pm in the gallery with a welcome drink and a chance to view the work on show. We will then move upstairs for a three course dinner. Sean Welsh from the independent wine merchants Flourish and Prosper in Howden will present a choice of quality wines to match the food.

Lisa is happy to accommodate food allergies, intolerances, vegetarians and any special dietary requirements, but these should be discussed with Alison at the time of booking. Payment will be taken in full in advance.

Evening light Staithes harbour

If you would like to stay for the weekend then take a look at our reviews for Ash Cottage, Gun Gutter HouseLaura Knight’s Studio and the Longhouse. As well as these lovely self-catering cottages there a lots of other options in the village or in nearby Runswick, Sandsend and Whitby.

For your place at the table contact: al@staithesgallery.co.uk or telephone 01947 841840/07972 012464.

 

 

 

 

Visit York Awards

To the National Railway Museum last night for the glittering Visit York Tourism Awards. It’s a big event for the city that sees 7.1 million tourists a year, and a chance to draw attention to the best tourist ventures and happily to big-up some of the little enterprises that often don’t get a look in.

One of those was the Hairy Fig, the delightful little food emporium on Fossgate that packs in a heck of a lot of wonderful food; think Prestat chocolate, kumquats, olive oil on tap and, of course, figs, in the tiniest of spaces along with a café with only four tables. It’s a wonderfully eccentric enterprise run by Sue Robson Hardie who admits to travelling all over to track down some exotic ingredient you can’t get anywhere else. She was so gobsmacked at having won Best Shopping Experience that she almost failed to go up and collect her award, what with getting her dress caught in the chair leg.

Among the other awards, Hotel of the Year went to Middlethorpe Hall; Guest Accommodation of the Year went to Bishops on Holgate Road;  Pub of the Year to the Golden Fleece on Pavement; and the restaurant award went to another small scale enterprise El Piano, York’s veggie, vegan and gluten-free restaurant. Well done to all and to BBC Look North’s Phil Bodmer who once he’d got his bow tie fixed by Elly Fiorentini from Radio York, gamely compered the evening in spite of a noisy lot of tables somewhere at the back of Platform 5.

Thanks, too, to Visit York for their hospitality.

York Wine Club

Jim Helsby & Terry Herbert of The Wine Club

We’ve long been fond of the York Beer and Wine Shop, a specialist shop tucked away off Fishergate that does what it says and more.

Jim Helsby is the man behind it and a bit of a York legend. There’s been his long-standing beer column in the York Press and he’s been running this precious little shop since 1985.

Today it  stocks 250 bottled beers from home and abroad with the likes of  Cropton’s ‘Monkman’s Slaughter’, Hambleton’s ‘Nightmare’ as well as scores of German and Belgian beers and Timothy Taylor’s on draught. Then there are ciders, both draught and bottled, and some of the loveliest well-cared for cheeses anywhere: Berkswell, Stinking Bishop, unpasteurised Brie de Meaux.

Wine, though, is a relatively new addition. An interesting selection, particularly strong on Spanish wines  that led to the collaboration in 1995 with wine merchant Terry Herbert and together they run The Wine Club.

Once a month they email you with the offer of one or two mixed cases of good value wines from growers you don’t find in supermarkets. You can collect or – within reason – they’ll deliver. Click here for this month’s offer. It’s a fair indication of the range, value and unfussy style of the club.

Terry will also organise a personal wine tasting for groups of 8-12 and every few months he organises wine tastings with supper. In April it was at Melton’s, on 11th July it is the Dawnay Arms at Newton on Ouse, for a tutored tasting of Langeudoc wines, a three course supper, plenty of wine, all for £35. Not surprisingly at such prices, these events are usually a sell-out so book now. We’ve booked our table, so watch this space, we’ll be reporting back.

Flourish & Prosper

Helen wrote about Flourish & Prosper earlier this year when owner Sean Welsh selected half a dozen autumn wines for us.  We were so taken with his selection, his wonderful shop in Howden and his wife Julie’s delicatessen, that they were our first port of call when we wanted some decent wine for our Squidbeak Dinner.

Sean will make a selection of wines to match the food at our dinners to be held over two weekends 11th & 12th May and 22nd and 23rd June. For more information and to book your place at the table, click here.

We’ll be writing more about Sean’s wine in the coming weeks. In the meantime have a look at Sean’s selection at Flourish & Prosper available by mail order.

Spring rolls, Halifax-style

To The Cooking School at Dean Clough for a night of Thai madness. Crispy duck and spring rolls anyone? I’ve never made either so it’s perhaps as well we’ve got the lovely Sam Boonton, 5 Star chef from Thai Style restaurant in Halifax coaxing us through the motions. I don’t know about you but I’ve always thought oriental cuisine a bit of a dark art. Sheer ignorance on my part. I love to eat it but have rarely had the nerve to put it together at home. Might be a different story after tonight.

It is, of course, more straightforward than I imagined and before long I’m stuffing rice noodles, shredded and lightly fried cabbage, carrot and mushrooms into pastry so thin it’s transparent  (but surprisingly strong) into perfect rolls. As resident tutor/chef Matthew Benson-Smith astutely observed, that sort of dexterity only comes with having rolled a few fags in a former life.

The rolls are quickly deep fried and before you know it ready to eat. Amazing! Crunchy, spicy, someone stop me before I wolf the lot.

That lovely dark stickiness that makes duck skin crack is just caramelized sugar, water and a pinch of five spice mix, slathered on, steamed for an hour then roast in a hot oven for 35 mins. After letting the cooked duck sit for five mins we shred the meat and tuck in. Simple and delicious.

There’s the usual disparate bunch of people partaking this evening, including Gavin Emmett, the renowned motorcycling correspondent (just back from a tour of Thailand and keen to keep his hand in), Keith Bridge moonlighting from his café, the Blue Cup in Castleford, the lovely Joy, a driving instructor from Upperthong and retired copper Robert from Holmfirth.

I’ve done a handful of courses now at Dean Clough and one of the best things about them is the folk. Always friendly, always funny, always different.

If you fancy honing your kitchen skills but can’t do the weekends, the ‘night school’ courses might be just the thing. The next one is ‘A taste of the Mediterranean’: three nights on consecutive weeks from 14 May. Check TCS website for details.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Real Ale with CAMRA in Sheffield

Last month some old friends of ours signed up for a CAMRA weekend in Sheffield. It was quite a commitment to real ale since they live in Oxford. No doubt most of the pubs will be familiar to local ale lovers but it represents a handy primer for new visitors.  So here is Hugh Palmer and Hoonie Feltham’s exclusive report on how others see us (with some nice photographs from Hugh www.hughpalmer.com)

 

Our first pint in the Kelham Island Tavern

‘The Oxford Branch of CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) went on a day’s jolly to Sheffield last month to sample the local pubs and their real ale.

We limited ourselves to locally brewed ales and were well impressed by the range and quality.   We started at Kelham Island a mix of lovely old buildings and some derelict and defunct reminders of Sheffield’s past industrial glory.

The Kelham Island Tavern has a long bar of gleaming hand pumps, dark tables and chairs in a traditional beer drinking pub. It has won the CAMRA award for best UK pub several times, and deservedly so.  They had four regular and four guest beers – one of which was the marvelously named North Riding’s Cricket R.I.P. We sampled Abbeydale Brewery’s Deception (ABV 4.1) a good strong amber ale, and one of Bradfield’s  Farmer’s Blond (ABV 4.0) a tasty light and hoppy ale, which the landlord described as ‘a very popular pint’.

Sheffield's famous Fat Cat

Next to The Fat Cat across the road. Its tiny bar – just big enough for two people to serve from at a squeeze – had a remarkable 12 ales on tap. We sampled a pint of Kelham Island Brewery’s Pale Rider (ABV 5.2) winner of CAMRA’s Supreme Champion Beer of Britain, and a pint of Sheffield Best Bitter (ABV 4.0) at a bargain £2 a pint. This we matched with a lunch of delicious Kelham Sausages in Yorkshire pud and a so-so chickpea veggie dish.

Then to the Riverside, a student pub and café by the river with a view to a mass of student flats across the road. Happily the view was appeased by a pint of Yorkshire Pride (ABV 3.7) a tasty and bitter blond ale from Barnsley’s Acorn Brewery.

The Harlequin was a big, impersonal, split-level place whose house beers are provided by the local Brew Company.  Sampling Cedar Lake Amber (ABV 4.6) we liked the woody bitter that had a strong after taste and the Milton Thalia (ABV 4.1) .

Note taking in the Rutland Arms

The tram then took us back into town and to the lovely Rutland Arms with its snug and low tables where the golden light bitter, Blue Bee Nectar Pale (ABV 4) was enjoyed nearly as much as the hoppy Arbour Ales Pale Ale (ABV 4).

We were by now feeling tired and a bit wobbly, but not so wobbly that we couldn’t manage just one last pint at the Sheffield Tap, a terrific pub right there on Platform 1b of Sheffield Midland station, formerly the First Class Refreshment Rooms. After an award winning CAMRA conversion, it is now a very classy bar, with a sweeping row of windows that looks out across the platform in a scene straight out of Brief Encounter though rather incongruously staffed by a team of Aussies and Kiwis. Just time then for our last pint of Thornbridge Brewery’s Jaipur (ABV 5.7). Nice beer, nice bar, lovely atmosphere, no extraneous anything and the perfect place to down our last pint. Thanks Sheffield.’ Hugh Palmer & Hoonie Feltham, Oxford

York Chocolate Festival

It’s surprising in a city like York with Terry’s, Rowntree’s and Craven’s so much part of the city’s history, that they’ve never made much of a thing about it.

That’s all set to change this weekend, with the city’s first Chocolate Festival. It’s being organised by Sophie Jewett, who is a familiar face at chocolate workshops and farmers’ markets in north Yorkshire selling her own handmade chocolates (including the surprisingly delicious Yorkshire blue cheese chocolates) and who earlier this year opened the Cocoa House on Blake Street, a shop, a workshop and a place to eat and drink chocolate.

The Festival runs from Good Friday, April 6th to Monday 9th April, with chocolate themed stalls in Parliament street and a marquee in St Sampson’s Square. Workshops are split between the marquee – easter nest workshop, making  chocolate from scratch -  and the Cocoa House – easter egg making. There will be talks each day at the Mansion House on York’s chocolate history and the new Chocolate Museum in King’s Square.

Fancy white chocolate and truffle oil risotto? Melton’s restaurant are holding a chocolate lunch on Saturday,  Karen Hardwick will be matching wine with chocolate in the marquee on Saturday, and the Dean Court Hotel are holding a Chocolate Literary Dinner on Good Friday with authors Paul Chrystal and Fiona Shaw. Fiona’s  book The Sweetest Thing is a novel about two girls who come to York to work in the Chocolate Factory. Paul Chrystal’s book, out this month, says it all in the title: The History of Chocolate in York. All this is matched with a chocolate themed dinner £35.

All the events are listed on the festival website www.yorkchocolatefestival.co.uk

Cavendish Pavilion Scones

The Duchess of Devonshire cutting the ribbon to open the Cavendish Pavilion with MD of Devonshire Hotels and Restaurants, Iain Shelton

At the official opening of the newly refurbed Cavendish Pavilion, the Duke of Devonshire told us they were going ‘big on scones’ with cheese, lemon, ginger, even chocolate. So I bravely ventured through the swing doors to chef Jareg Markowski’s kitchen where he told me he makes a hundred of them every day and happily sang out the recipe:  ‘4kg of SR flour…..’ Chefs, bless ‘em.

I’ve recalculated the recipe to give you just a dozen little beauties. If you want 100, multiply by 8.

 

 

Preheat the oven to 220ºC

Ingredients:

500g self raising flour
2 tsp baking powder
100g butter cut into small pieces
100g sultanas
100g sugar
250ml milk

To glaze:
1 egg beaten with a tbsp of milk

For chocolate scones:

Omit the sultanas and replace with
75g of chocolate buttons and 25g of cocoa powder

Method:

Mix the flour and the baking powder together. Add the butter by hand or in a mixer running slowly, combine the butter and flour until it looks like breadcrumbs.

Add the sultanas and the sugar and combine.

Make a hole in the centre and pour in the milk and cover with flour and mix gently until just combined into a soft dough.

Try not to over-mix the dough or you will not get Jareg’s light, fluffy scones.

Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and roll the dough gently to 2cm high.

Dip a cutter into a little flour and stamp out the scones. Put the scones on a tray lined with greaseproof paper.

Brush the top of the scones with the egg and milk mixture.

Place the scones in a hot oven for 15 minutes until golden.

 

 

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