Blind Swine York

THE BLIND SWINE HAS NOW CLOSED. THE CHEF MICHAEL O'HARE HAS ANNOUNCED HE WILL BE OPENING A NEW RESTAURANT IN LEEDS IN EARLY MAY. TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS WATCH THIS SPACE AND FOLLOW OUR BLOG.

Crazy, off-the-wall, avant garde and even a bit squidbeaky, the Blind Swine is the most exciting restaurant opening of the year not just in York but I’ll stick my neck out and say, in Yorkshire. The cocktail bar and restaurant opened in March with James Wreglesworth as manager and Michael O’Hare as chef. It looks much like any other city centre cocktail bar, a place for the young ones to neck a beer or down a Manhattan, but forget all that because it is the food that is the thing.

Chef O’Hare, all tattoos and preposterous bleached blonde hair (at the time of writing), has created a tasting menu, which for £42 brings you eight (smallish) courses, matching cocktails, coffee and marshmallows. No choice just a dazzling  parade of way-out dishes, so bring a couple of mates and an open mind and you’ll have a ball. Promise.

Our dinner began with a fruity foamy cocktail topped with a violet flower. Then through a series of well-paced courses: hen's egg on a nest - a  poached quail egg, mushroom and truffle stuffed inside a hen's egg shell on a bed of hay. Carrots and radish ‘growing’ in a plant pot of horseradish mayonnaise and ‘rye’ soil; snail bread; crab, avocado and grapefruit; red mullet with chorizo and dried corn; Yorkshire grouse with spinach and lemon verbena the sloe gin sauce poured from a shotgun casing; a pre-dessert water melon dish and mango that looked for all the world like beef tartare; and a dessert of salted caramel ice cream and pine and pear soufflé. Coffee arrives in a fancy state of the art percolator then homemade marshmallows to be toasted on its flame. Somewhere in there was a mint julep served in a battered tin can, a Feran Adria beer, oh and lots more. It’s good food, great fun. There's a long waiting list. Book now for York's most talked about restaurant.

Blind Swine

22-24 Swinegate, York, North Yorkshire Y01 8AZ

Tel 01904 634825
www.blindswine.co.uk

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Type: Restaurant

Price guide

3 out of 5

Cuisine type: Modern British

Part of Eat York

Review by Jill, 10 December 2012

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